Every year Allagash brews a special beer called Fluxus to mark its anniversary. The style changes from year to year, and 2011's Fluxus was a biere de garde, an elegant French-style farmhouse ale. (No, it’s not strictly a Belgian, but it originated just over the border in northern France.) Copper colored with a small, tightly beaded head, the beer gives off a funky aroma that exhales cloves and cherries. Slightly sour and well carbonated, Fluxus 2011 (8 percent ABV) tastes nutty, fruity, and somewhat floral, and brings lager-type qualities into the fold. An exercise in contrasts, this complex beer combines sour and citrus elements, but it's not entirely sour like a lambic, and it's not as citrusy as an IPA. Nowhere does it go to extremes. It lulls you in.