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Selected recipes from cookbooks reviewed in ``Foraging for Flavors,'' Page E1.

Riso Del Sabato (Sabbath rice)

Adapted from ``Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen,'' by Joyce Goldstein (Chronicle Books).

5 to 6 cups chicken or beef broth, or part water and part broth
2 tablespoons olive oil or rendered chicken fat
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 teaspoon chopped saffron threads, infused in 2 tablespoons hot broth

3/4 cup grapes, or golden raisins plumped in white wine for 30 minutes (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pour the broth (or water and broth) into a saucepan and bring to a simmer; adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.

Warm the olive oil or chicken fat in a large deep saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and saute for a few minutes until softened. Add the rice and stir until opaque, about 3 minutes. Add a ladleful (about 1 cup) of the simmering broth and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until the liquid is absorbed. Reduce the heat and continue to add broth a ladleful at a time, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next, until the rice kernels are al dente in the center and creamy on the outside, 18 to 20 minutes in all. Add the saffron and its broth about halfway through, and add the grapes or raisins during the last addition of broth, if using. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and transfer to a warmed serving dish. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6.

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