People expect a particular level of tourist tackiness from Daytona, says Mark Lane, a Daytona Beach News-Journal columnist who weighs in on everything from politics to tough-love gardening. Lane surprises visitors with a bike ride around the Ormond Scenic Loop and Trail. Its 30 miles of back roads through live oaks and lovely marshlands (www.ormondscenicloopandtrail.com). I take a slightly longer variant to Flagler Beach and stop at The Golden Lion Cafe. It has a roof deck where you can watch the surfers and have a beer (www.goldenlioncafe.com). Thirty miles away, De Leon Springs State Park has nothing to do with Ponce de Leon and the Old Spanish Sugar Mill isnt from Spanish times and was likely never a sugar mill. But the electric-powered mill stones grind flour for pancake batter. Each table has a griddle so you can pour and cook your own. Its delightful (www.planetdeland.com/sugarmill). At nearby Blue Spring State Park, the water is a constant 72 degrees. The manatees come around Christmas and stay until spring. You might see 20 or 40 of these inert, cowlike creatures in water thats extremely clear, Lane says (www.floridastateparks.org/bluespring/default.cfm). Just dont expect lots of action: The last time I was there, I overheard a child ask his parents, Are they alive?