Far from the crowds, a boat will whisk you to Sante Wellness Center on the reef-fringed south coast for what could be the Caribbean’s most healing, modestly priced spa retreat. (Eye masques $15, body scrubs $45, a two-hour tropical noni wrap and massage $145.) Eco-travelers: In the untrammeled east end Mango Creek Lodge bundles seven nights in an over-water cabana with all meals, drinks, and a first-rate do-list for $1,000 a person.
To really “get’’ Roatán, experience its local communities: Hoist a Salva Vida lager at B.J.’s Backyard in Oakridge and dory through the secret bights frequented by latter-day pirates. In Jonesville, catch a boat to Hole in the Wall for lunch at a hippy hangout started by sailors who grounded on Roatán for good.