We set out on Newbury Street to find the unique shops, the stores that aren't in every mall (sorry, Pottery Barn), hip city center (this means you, Lush), and posh shopping district in the world (au revoir, Diptyque). But after an hour of this hard-hitting reporting, we grow a tad peckish and need a respite.
Betraying our mission, we stop into the nearest cafe,
Newbury can be a strange place, with attack birds and drive-by blasts of klezmer music from the Hanukkah mobile (you can't makes these things up). But look past the chain stores and the tourists, and you'll find a street that is still utterly charming. The first retail store opened on Newbury at the turn of the last century, but it wasn't until the 1970s that the strip gained prominence as the city's premier shopping destination for hip and not so hip stores. Falling into the latter category is a place that neither of us had ever noticed: a few doors down from Chanel, a petite shop called Knit & Needlepoint.
It seems out of place so close to Chanel and Burberry, but with a 16-year history on the strip, Knit & Needlepoint has earned its place as a Newbury staple, especially with so many hipsters turning to cross-stitch for comfort. The yarn-stocked nook sells materials for Red Sox pillows that say "Boston Believes" (just in case you still don't believe), granny-friendly woven purses, and custom-made patterns that are made at the shop based on a photograph, in the event you want to turn your cat into cross-stitch.
Across the street, the burly looking security guard at the door of Dorfman Jewelers nearly scares us off, but it turns out his burliness is necessary because Dorfman sells baubles with price tags that go into the millions. Despite our slovenly appearance and overwhelmed eyes, general manager Gerard Riveron shows us around the pricey collections.
The advantage to spending time on Newbury, instead of, say, at the South Shore Plaza, is that there are boutiques selling clothing lines hand-picked by buyers who travel extensively and stay current on new designers. The first time we met Alan Bilzerian, the man behind the eponymous store, was in Paris at the tail end of fashion week as he was about to meet with designer Azzedine Alaia. Bilzerian stocks names such as Alexander McQueen and Yohji Yamamoto, and as proof of his store's importance in the city, we run into kabuki socialite Marilyn Reisman perusing the racks.
A few doors down, the father-son team behind Riccardi and Relic also takes buying trips to Europe to track down new designers and the best denim. At the other end of Newbury, Dava Muramatsu stocks labels such as Comme des Garcons in her boutique Matsu.
Technically on Berkeley Street, Louis Boston is probably the city's best example of an independent store where buyers stock everything from art to business suits. The building, designed by William Preston in 1864 as the Museum of Natural History, sells home goods, men's and women's clothes, CDs, and also houses a restaurant and a salon. On our reporter's pay, much of the designer stock is out of our financial grasp. But since we're in the neighborhood we stop in for some essentials - specifically MarieBelle chocolate and French pop music. Man cannot survive on chocolate peppermint doughnuts alone.
Committed to supporting all things local, we stop at Gallery NAGA inside the Church of the Covenant, which, according to director Arthur Dion, made a bold decision in the 1980s to feature mainly Boston artists. NAGA usually shows paintings, such as the current exhibit by Todd McKie, but the gallery is also known for its collection of high-end, hand-crafted furniture. We bypass the paintings and furniture to check out the provocative holographs by Boston artist Harriet Casdin-Silver. The images (and the body parts) pop.
Neither of us had noticed the New England Historic Genealogical Society building on previous trips to Newbury. When you're rushing to
During summer months, L'Aroma Cafe is an ideal spot for people-watching on the patio, especially since there's no more Armani Cafe, which until recently was the place on Newbury to sip, watch, and judge. Inside, the off-season people-watching is also respectable, especially if you're in the mood to rub shoulders with a Eurolicious crowd.
Technically, we don't require a $198 pink pillow with a gold beetle on it, but once we are inside Bliss Home we begin to redefine our wants versus our needs. We start to believe we need that pillow, with its clash of pastel and metallic. We also believe we might need to outfit ourselves with Mandarina Duck totes and Alessi watches. That's why we run out the door before we open our wallets. Owner Panamai Manadee moved Bliss from the Porter Square area to Newbury Street about five years ago. It seems like a better fit for a boutique that sells a $399 Magis stepladder.
There isn't an abundance of local designers on Newbury Street - the high rent keeps them in South Boston and other far-flung locations - but Maha Barsom, who trained in Paris and now teaches at the Rhode Island School of Design, recently opened a tiny shop on Newbury where she sells perfect white shirts for women. For ultimate bargain window shopping, we gaze at the displays in the School of Fashion Design. Thanks to the window display and lobby gallery space, we get a glimpse of the "Project Runway"-esque goings-on at the center for couture-to-come. This year the window featured gowns by Joe Carl and couture fashioned from recycled materials.
Fenway Park sells the best cotton candy in Boston, but Sugar Heaven, the subterranean sweet shop, has a machine where you can choose flavors and watch the fairy floss made fresh. After stuffing ourselves silly with chocolate-covered brownie pellets (thanks, sample lady), we move on to the European candy bars and Hello Kitty Pez dispensers.
We do a double take past Sugar Heaven when we see the "gently-worn" clothing shop Second Time Around. That's because it is the second time we have seen it. There are actually two on Newbury, one on the way to Massachusetts Avenue and another closer to the Boston Public Garden. Employee Jeff Casler says the local chain has enough inventory to fill six locations on Newbury Street, but has settled on two.
Casler says the store is "a great resource for people to bring clothing in to make money." He also recommends shopping frequently; the store schedules about 25 drop-offs a day.
When we pass by Too Timid, we assume it's some kind of bath shop. But upon closer inspection, we realize that this is a store for folks looking to enhance their - how to say this delicately - personal pleasure. Given the merchandise, the store is quite tasteful. Owner Chad Chunglo opened the store as a place for folks to find these bedroom products without being confronted with pornography.
We confess that the main reason we stop into Johnny Cupcakes is to see if adorable owner and Elijah Wood doppelganger Johnny Earle is working. Sigh. He isn't. We buy a "Make Cupcakes, Not War" T-shirt to ease the pain. The store is brilliantly designed like a bakery, with shirts displayed in pastry cases. Naturally, the thought of baked goods is making us hungry.
There are a few restaurant options nearby, including a newly-opened French eatery called La Voile, but we notice another new place in the former INQ space called Cafeteria Boston. We walk in and essentially crash the restaurant's opening party, but they're kind enough to seat us to enjoy the free champagne. It looks like Cafeteria is striving to be the new home for displaced patrons of the late Armani Cafe - meaning we are not wearing enough black or Armani to fit in with the stylish crowd. Which prompts us to drink even more champagne.
And just when we think we have seen the best of the strip, we arrive at the Fairy Shop, a hideaway between Gloucester and Hereford streets guarded by a team of gnomes not unlike the little guy who traveled internationally in the movie "Amelie." Owner Michael Selletto says that although his shop is named for winged creatures, the gnome statues outsell the fairies, unicorns, and dragons.
Selletto, who has run his fantasy shop for 13 years, says there are actually five types of gnomes. Only one is female. Her name is Zelda.
"She keeps order," Selletto said.
And to think we saw her on Newbury Street.