Taxi Jaune is a perfect "welcome back'' - serving, on this day, radishes with good, sweet, creamy butter and salt flakes - the dish might as well have a little French flag on the top.
Later, Ari and I share mains. A "bavette'' (flank steak) is crunchy on the outside, juicy within - a bite full of flavor, good technique and strong sourcing.
The trout, skin crisp and peeled back like the page of a good book ,reveals something sensual, a kind of "pages turned slowly'' read. There's a fettucine next to it that's so good, it causes me to go home and try to make my own pasta.
Outside, the sun is bright. The city shines like a diamond.
Count on about 20 euros with a drink at lunch.
Le Taxi Jaune - MAP
01 42 76 00 40
Posted by Joe Ray, Globe correspondent, the 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year, and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Twitter: @joe_diner.
Photo By Joe Ray for The Boston Globe