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A vegan spot in Somerville

Posted by Sheryl Julian  January 18, 2011 12:32 PM

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As part of our ongoing series on cheap places around town, boston.com producer Nicole Cammorata sent this in.

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For those who fear vegan cuisine -- or who think it's for hippies and crunchy types -- True Bistro in Somerville's Teele Square is a place where vegans and non-vegans alike can enjoy a fine meal and leave satisfied. Husband and wife team Michael and Linda Harrison opened the bistro in November in a space formerly occupied by Teele Square Cafe. "What we wanted to show people was that vegan food doesn't have to be a sacrifice," says Linda.

On a recent weeknight, all 14 tables are full and a radio plays soft jazz. The interior is calm and cool, decorated in soft grays and greens with paintings by Somerville's Carolyn Muskat as part of a rotating showcase of local artists.

truebistro2.jpgI'm not vegan or vegetarian and was curious about what, exactly, I'd be eating. For others like me, there is a glossary of terms on the menu and the wait staff is knowledgeable and kind.  The menu is organized into salads, small plates, large plates, sides, and desserts. For an appetizer, my companion and I split a small plate of roast butternut-squash ravioli. The main course is a purse-shaped phyllo pastry filled with seitan, quince, and more butternut. Green curry with spicy tofu is tasty, but the black rice cake it comes with is gritty. For dessert, we order our waitress's recommendation: coconut cream pie with blood orange sauce. It has the consistency of flan, and there's nothing particularly creamy about it.

No chance that I'll give up meat anytime soon, but as a break from my regular regime, and for others, the all-veggie option is a welcome addition to my neighborhood.

True Bistro, 1154 Broadway St., Somerville, 617-627-9000. truebistroboston.com

About Dishing

What's cooking in the world of food.

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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.

Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.

Ellen Bhang reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe and writes about wine.
 

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