You know those lobster rolls you pay $15 for?

I was testing lobster chowder for tomorrow's Sunday Supper & More column and had some leftover lobster so I made a couple of lobster rolls. As you know, once the lobster is cooked, the roll takes about two minutes to assemble. But the main ingredient is expensive. I used 4 ounces of lobster meat per roll (an 8-ounce container is $29 at my local Whole Foods; the company stopped selling live lobsters but does offer cooked meat).

The bread rolls are cheap, and I've always loved the idea that New Englanders still stick to the top-loading soft hot-dog bun griddled with a little butter as the ideal lobster salad holder. I added just a little mayo and some chopped celery. Only missing ingredient: a view of the sea.

Lobster rolls

Makes 2

8 ounces cooked lobster meat, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup mayonnaise

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 small stalk celery, finely chopped

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

2 top-loading hot-dog rolls

1. In a bowl, combine the lobster, mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and celery.

2. Spread the butter on both flat sides of the rolls. Heat a heavy skillet. Set in the rolls, flat sides down. Cook 2 minutes or until golden. Turn and cook the other side in the same way.

3. Let the rolls cool for a few minutes. Divide the lobster salad between the rolls, tucking it into them so they're very full. Sheryl Julian