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Boston's Scotch egg boomlet

Posted by Devra First  June 29, 2010 03:44 PM

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Going on the "three makes a trend" principle, this UK snack is having a moment.

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Jennifer Taylor for The Boston Globe

Scotch eggs appear on the menus at several new restaurants: Sam's, the Esti Parsons-run restaurant at Louis on the waterfront; the Gallows, the South End establishment in the former Sage space, courtesy of the original Biltmore team; and the Haven, which took over the old Zon's space in J.P.

For those who haven't experienced them, Scotch eggs are hardboiled eggs coated in sausage and bread crumbs, then deep-fried. I've been waiting for years for someone to open a local restaurant with a cheeky, upscale take on British food -- bubble and squeak, bangers and mash, spotted dick. (The Haven, serving haggis and other Scottish fare, comes close.) But the appeal of Scotch eggs eludes me. Perhaps it's the flashbacks to my grandmother's meatloaf. She would put a hardboiled egg in the middle so that each slice stared up at you from your plate with a baleful yellow eyeball. Sort of traumatic.

Do Scotch eggs whet your appetite? And why are they suddenly de rigueur?

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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.

Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.

Ellen Bhang reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe and writes about wine.
 

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