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Noah would recognize it.

Posted by Stephen Meuse  November 25, 2009 12:54 PM

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The Good Book says Noah was the first man to make wine. Whether he did or not we can't really know, but the grain of truth in the story has the first vineyard planted in far eastern Turkey near the borders of modern Iran and Armenia. We know quite a bit about how wine was made at the beginning: it was a product of the homestead, the result of very simple technology, and was consumed pretty much as soon as it had completed the transition from grape juice to wine. Although we know much less about how the earliest wine actually tasted, we can surmise from the foregoing that it was low in alcohol, a little fizzy, cloudy, and - shall we say -- gutsy.

To get a taste of wine made along these lines today isn't easy - but not impossible. This weekend we found the wine pictured above at Richard Kzirian's retail shop, Violette, newly-reopened at its old location on the corner of Mt. Auburn and Belmont Sts. in Cambridge where it now shares space with Anna Sortun's little coffee and (mainly) take-away gem, Sofra. Allez Goutons (roughly, 'come on, let's taste') comes from Catherine and Domique Derain, whose vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet you may wander here. The wine itself ($15) is made from their biodynamically farmed Aligote grapes, but didn't qualify for the proper designation because it's so . . . well . . . authentique (read: low-alcohol, cloudy, fizzy). As for the taste, my guess is you won't have had anything like it -- at least since you last set foot on Mt. Ararat. We antediluvians loved it.

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Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.

Ellen Bhang reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe and writes about wine.
 

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