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Eating locally, midwinter

Posted by Devra First  January 23, 2009 01:20 PM

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Two upcoming dinners show it's possible to be a locavore in New England, even in the coldest months.

On Sunday, Jan. 25, Tomasso Trattoria in Southborough hosts a five-course dinner featuring only locally sourced ingredients. How does one do this in winter in New England and still make diners happy? Canning, my friends. Steve Verrill of Verrill Farm will be there to talk about sustainable farming in New England.

Yes, we can! (Globe Staff File Photo/Suzanne Kreiter)

Here is the menu:

Pickled fennel, peperoncini, and white carrots on a crostino

Braised lamb ragu with malfatti pasta

Steamed Eastham mussels with homemade guanciale, tomatoes, and grilled foccaccia

Champlain triple creme with cherry jelly

Homemade vanilla gelato with warm peach jam

The fruits and vegetables come from Verrill, some of them canned in the summer and preserved at Tomasso. The lamb was raised in Westmoreland, N.H. The guanciale was cured at Tomasso and comes from pigs raised in Rodman, N.Y. The cheese is from Vermont. The gelato was made at Tomasso using cream from High Lawn Farm in Lee.

Sounds pretty lovely. The dinner starts at 6 p.m.; $45 per person, $65 with biodynamic/organic wine pairings, plus tax and tip. Call 508-481-8484 for more information.

Then, on Feb. 6 at 7 p.m., Mass Audubon's Drumlin Farm hosts a winter harvest dinner. The menu will include homemade cheese from local milk, Tuscan kale soup, a vegetarian frittata, Drumlin Farm meat, roasted winter vegetables, and pumpkin pie with whipped cream.

Brian Donahue, author of "Reclaiming the Commons: Community Farms and Forests in a New England Town" and "The Great Meadow: Farmers and the Land in Colonial Concord," will speak. about "how local agriculture in the midst of suburban communities can help to build a new way of living, one that is cognizant and considerate of the capacity of our local foodshed."

Tickets are $32 for members, $40 for nonmembers. They're taking reservations through Jan. 30. Call 781-259-2206 for more information.

About Dishing

What's cooking in the world of food.


Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.

Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.

Ellen Bhang reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe and writes about wine.

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