Review: Boulevard Saison-Brett

I may have a new favorite beer, and its name is Saison-Brett.

Made by Boulevard Brewing Co. in Kansas City, Saison-Brett is based on the brewery's Tank 7 saison, or Belgian farmhouse ale. Here, it's dry-hopped and bottled conditioned with yeasts that include Brettanomyces, a wild strain that is usually considered a contaminant but is valued for the aromas and flavors it imparts. These characteristics are often likened to barnyards or horse blankets. That may sound disgusting, but they are acquired tastes and highly prized.

Hazy gold with a beautiful, towering head, Saison-Brett gives off a spicy, nasal-clearing aroma of lemon, biscuits, wet blankets, and hamster cages. The taste is as complex as the aroma: It starts with a hoppy, lemony spiciness, followed by a big carbonation tingle, and finishes with a funky damp-straw quality that lingers into the aftertaste.

Saison-Brett, which is 8.5 percent alcohol, is a stunning achievement. Unfortunately it's a limited release, so get it while it's out. A 750-milliliter bottle costs about $15 a bottle.