Let's eat

Scrambled eggs with mushrooms and herbs

January 27, 2010

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Serves 6

Luxurious ingredients like foie gras and caviar haven’t vanished from menus, but next to them are far more down-to-earth dishes such as roast chicken, quiches, and hearty soups. T.W. Food in Cambridge, known for its elegant tasting menus, is catering to the times with rustic, bistro-style fare. Chef and co-owner Tim Wiechmann, who trained at three-star Michelin restaurants in France, tweaked his menu out of necessity. He says that he and his wife, Bronwyn, are enjoying the dishes. “We’re still just as dedicated to purity of ingredients and local sourcing,’’ he says. “It’s just that now T.W. Food is less of a tasting-menu restaurant, where flavors are isolated, than a craft-oriented, artisanal restaurant.’’ The chef is making lots of gnocchi, offering more of his own charcuterie, and also lending a refined touch to more ordinary foods. One appetizer features local farm eggs scrambled with heavy cream, mushrooms sauteed in butter, and fresh parsley whirred into a puree. The mixture is layered in martini glasses. It’s a dish that wows guests. With the right eggs, plenty of extra yolks, and good heavy cream, it can be made by almost anyone.


8 eggs plus 4 extra yolks
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 bunch parsley (leaves only), rinsed thoroughly
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 ice cubes
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound mushrooms (morels, chanterelles, crimini, or shiitake), stemmed and chopped
1/4 cup heavy cream
1. In a bowl, combine the eggs and extra yolks; set aside.

2. In a pot of boiling salted water, blanch the parsley for 1 minute. Drain and rinse with cold water. Pat the parsley dry. Transfer to a blender. Add the olive oil and ice cubes. Blend the parsley until it forms a thick puree.

3. In a saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes or until tender. Transfer to a bowl.

4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to the saucepan. Add the eggs and whisk vigorously over medium-low heat, without letting large thick curds form on the bottom or sides of the pan. The eggs should form small grains. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the heavy cream.

5. In 6 martini or other stemmed glasses, or in bowls, layer the parsley mixture, then the eggs, and finally mushrooms. Adapted from T.W. Food