Beyond Croutons
Give leftover bread life in fresh, filling salads
I have a serious frugal streak, especially in the kitchen. This is one reason that I love bread salads in the summer. Italian bread salad, called panzanella, and Middle Eastern pita-based bread salad, called fattoush, rely on stale - but high-quality - bread for both substance and character. There is only so much space in the freezer for homemade bread crumbs, so these salads are a great way to use bread that would otherwise be tossed (or become duck or pigeon food).
Though there are classic combinations and certain ingredients that you should not skip, both salads leave room for personal interpretation. Panzanella should always have tomatoes, basil, vinegar, olive oil, and a little onion, but beyond that, it's up to you. You like garlic, anchovies, and capers? (I do.) Then go right ahead. You want more muscle? Add some good canned tuna, fresh mozzarella, or cubed grilled eggplant. Likewise, fattoush is always made with tomatoes, cucumbers, lemon, and mint, but garlic, scallions, and peppers are also welcome. You get the idea. With roast chicken, fennel, and a Spanish-accented sherry vinaigrette, the last of our lot is the heartiest salad of the three.
MIDDLE EASTERN PITA BREAD SALAD (FATTOUSH)
SERVES 6
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed juice from 1 lemon Salt and black pepper
1 tablespoon ground sumac (optional)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), cored, halved, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch chunks
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 medium yellow or orange bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
8 large scallions, thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups roughly chopped fresh mint, a few leaves reserved for garnish
1 cup torn parsley leaves
2 large pita breads, split and toasted until crisp
1 romaine heart, washed and torn into bite-size pieces (6 to 7 cups)
In a large nonreactive bowl, mix lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon of salt, black pepper to taste, and sumac, if using. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil, then correct seasoning with salt and black pepper to taste. Add tomatoes, cucumber, bell pepper, scallions, chopped mint, and parsley to the bowl with the dressing and toss to coat. Break the pita into rough 11/2-inch pieces and add it and the romaine to the vegetables and toss lightly. Taste the salad, adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper, if necessary, transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the whole mint leaves, and serve at once.
ITALIAN BREAD SALAD (PANZANELLA)
SERVES 6
5 medium tomatoes (about 2 1/2 pounds), cored, halved, and seeded
Salt and black pepper
3/4 pound very stale hearty Italian, French, or country bread (not sourdough), crusts trimmed and pulled into rough 1 1/2-inch cubes (7 to 8 cups)
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
2 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon capers, drained and minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow or orange bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/2 medium sweet or red onion, cut into 1-inch-long slivers
3/4 cup roughly chopped fresh basil, a few leaves reserved for garnish
In a blender or food processor, puree 2 of the tomatoes and a pinch of salt until smooth. In a large bowl, toss the bread with the pureed tomato and set aside until softened to desired texture, at least 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large nonreactive bowl, mix garlic, anchovy, capers, vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil, and season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Chop the remaining tomatoes into rough 1-inch chunks. Add tomatoes, bell pepper, cucumber, and onion to the bowl with the dressing and toss to coat. Add the softened bread and chopped basil and toss lightly. Taste the salad, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary, transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the whole basil leaves, and serve at once.
ROAST CHICKEN AND TOASTED BREAD SALAD
SERVES 6
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
Salt and black pepper
7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small, cooked rotisserie chicken (about 3 pounds), skin removed, juices reserved, and meat shredded (about 3 1/2 cups)
6 ounces very stale hearty Italian, French, or country bread (not sourdough), crusts trimmed, sliced, darkly toasted, and pulled into rough 1 1/2-inch cubes (about 4 cups)
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and sliced very thin (about 2 cups), plus 3 tablespoons chopped fennel fronds
5 large scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup torn parsley leaves
6 cups mixed sharp salad greens, such as escarole, arugula, frisee, or mizuna
3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
In a large nonreactive bowl, mix garlic, thyme, mustard, vinegar, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil and reserved chicken juices, then pour half of the dressing into a separate small bowl and set aside.
Add the bread and the chicken to the dressing in the large bowl, toss to coat, and set aside until bread has absorbed the dressing and softened slightly, at least 10 minutes. Add the sliced fennel, scallions, parsley, greens, and remaining dressing from the small bowl and toss lightly to coat. Taste the salad, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary, transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the chopped fennel fronds and pine nuts, and serve at once.
Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.
