At Commonwealth, the food has nothing to hide

Crispy whole black bass is “magically moist’’ inside.
Crispy whole black bass is “magically moist’’ inside.PHOTOS BY LANE TURNER/GLOBE STAFF

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Chef-owner Steve “Nookie” Postal, former Fenway Park executive chef and star of Bravo’s “Around the World in 80 Plates,” chronicled the opening of new restaurant Commonwealth for the website Eater.

We arrive knowing about the menu, the staff, the Kickstarter campaign that helped finance the restaurant, the construction issues, even the brand of the urinals. And we feel we know Postal himself, a little bit — a funny, self-effacing guy in a high-anxiety business. The fourth wall is not just broken, it’s gone. This is the modern dining experience. It trades illusion for intimacy. It suits Commonwealth, where the food has nothing to hide. It’s what might happen if a chef who learned his trade at Oleana, as Postal did, took over Boston Market.

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