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THE KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER
In Somerville, the Kirkland Tap & Trotter is the new, more-casual restaurant from chef Tony Maws. At Craigie on Main, his Cambridge spot, we get dishes like pig’s head revisited: It’s confit! And it’s served with pancakes, a la Peking duck! And there’s sambal, but it’s made with pumpkin, and the hoisin involves boudin noir. It’s exciting; it’s head-rearranging, and not just for the pig.
At the Kirkland Tap & Trotter, we get dishes like a giant pork chop: It’s a pork chop! It’s unadorned but for some charred broccoli rabe pinned beneath it like Wile E Coyote under an anvil. It is also unbelievably good, juicy, with serious heft, infused with smoke from the grill. It’s camping food in someone’s fantasy about camping.