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Thursday, August 23, 2007

Too much steak!


Front: KO Prime's 30-oz. rib eye. Back: The disembodied hand of someone in a steak coma.

Today I reviewed the steakhouse KO Prime, from whence came the whopping 30-ouncer pictured above. The Federalist recently closed, reopening as the steakhouse Mooo (oof, second-worst name ever). Restaurant L is now the Asian-influenced steakhouse Boston Public Meat (worst name ever, though it appears they may have changed it to simply Boston Public). And the Aquitaine Group, whose new French bistro Gaslight just opened serving steak frites galore, has a Newton steakhouse called Prime 128 (isn't that a real estate term?) in the works for later in the fall. The new steakhouses join Morton's, Ruth's Chris, Smith & Wollensky, Fleming's, Abe & Louie's, Bonfire, the Capital Grille, Grill 23 & Bar, the Oak Room, etc. etc. etc. ad infinitum.

The restaurant business is tough, and I understand wanting to make a sound investment -- three of the 10 top restaurants reserved last week on were steakhouses. But how many steakhouses is too many steakhouses? I think we've reached the saturation point. Clearly Boston has a hunger for giant beef slabs. But really, we'll eat other things too! Witness the recent success of T.W. Food in Cambridge (review here). And I'm looking forward to Myers+Chang, Christopher Myers and Joanne Chang's Asian eatery opening soon on Washington Street. (Their craigslist ad for servers and line cooks describes it thus: "No gloppy sauces. No foams, powders or gels. No ancient Chinese secret. Just fresh, bright, addictive chow and a commitment to offering great neighborhood service in a super new space.") Then there's the whole Fort Point Channel movement, which is sure to bring the city plenty of non-steaky goodness. Exciting things are happening on the restaurant scene. So let's keep going in that direction. No more steakhouses for a while. Do it for the cows.

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