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Buccaneer baby backs

Serves 4

An expert on French West Indian cooking, Francis Delage of La Route des Boucaniers in St. Barts, marinates his ribs for 24 hours, grills them over allspice wood, using the indirect method, and quickly sizzles them with a barbecue sauce directly over the fire. Soak 1 1/2 cups wood chips in water for 1 hour before grilling.

1 navel orange
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 scallions, both white and green parts, chopped
1/2Scotch bonnet chili, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
2 racks baby back pork ribs (4 to 5 pounds total)
Rumbullion barbecue sauce (see left)
1. Using a vegetable peeler, remove 2 strips of orange rind. Juice the orange; set aside 2 tablespoons for the barbecue sauce.

2. In a food processor, combine the remaining orange juice, onion, garlic, scallions, chili, parsley, vinegar, soy sauce, oil, pepper, allspice, and cloves. Puree until smooth.

3. Place a rack of ribs meat - side down on a work surface. Remove the thin membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a slender implement, such as a butter knife or the tip of a meat thermometer, under it. The best place to start is on one of the middle bones. Using a dishcloth or paper towel, peel off the membrane. Repeat with the remaining rack.

4. Place the ribs in a large roasting pan. Pour the marinade over them, turning the racks to coat both sides. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or as long as 24, turning them 3 or 4 times.

5. Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see Page D1 ) and preheat to medium (325 to 350 degrees). Place a large drip pan in the center of the grill under the grate.

6. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the ribs bone - side down in the center of the grate, over the drip pan and away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook the ribs for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours or until tender. When the ribs are done, the meat will have shrunk back from the ends of the bones by about 1/4 inch. Replenish the coals as needed.

7. Just before serving, lightly brush the ribs on both sides with a little of the barbecue sauce. Move the ribs directly over the fire and grill for 1 to 3 minutes on a side or until the sauce is sizzling and browned.

8. Transfer the ribs to a large cutting board. Let them rest for a few minutes, then cut in half or into individual ribs. Serve the remaining sauce on the side.

Adapted from ``Raichlen on Ribs"

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